About a year ago, I was enticed by a newish restaurant in the neighborhood, Bellanico, in Oakland's Glenview district. It had all the external looks of a classic Italian trattoria, with an open kitchen, friendly, comfy bar, and the aroma of all that great, vivid little bites of cicchetti.
Chef-owner Chris Shepherd (co-proprietor, with wife Elizabeth Frumusa, of Aperto on Potrero Hill) makes a roster of deceptively simple dishes shine, thanks to technical exactness that’s usually unheard of in places where no dish strays over $20.
I'm a sucker for service. This restaurant excels in that department on every level. And the food is very good and satisfying. Dishes are extraordinarily thorough and quite creative.
Casunzei (beet ravioli) are transcendentally earthy, while Swiss chard malfatti (dumpling like mounds of sauteed greens and ricotta) make you want to dissolve into the browned butter and sage they float on. Even when an entrée like crisp black cod on Sardinian fregola tastes a tad ordinary, the chef’s flawless execution still manages to give it a lift.
The anti pasta starters are exceptional; my favorite is the la quercia prosciutto, bresaola, salame toscano, country terrine, medjool dates, pickled vegetables, and an apple marmellata. It's $14, the most expensive item on the menu, but could easily be a main course, considering the variety and healthy portions.
The grilled prather ranch sirloin steak is wonderful. And the chard stems provide a tasty, succulent vegetable underneath the meat, and the added heirloom tomatoes are nice and fresh.
The desserts are wonderful and moderately priced. Make sure you sample everything.
Bellanico is located in Oakland at 4238 Park Boulevard. Street parking can be difficult at times, but well worth the task. Bellanico's web site
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